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Northumbria University Mountaineering Club |
O U T A C |
Route : Aonach Eagach |
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OS MAP : |
38 |
Grade : |
5 |
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GR : |
174566 |
Terrain : |
3 |
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Distance : |
6 miles (10 km) |
Navigation : |
2 |
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Ascent : |
1,000 m (3,300 ft) |
Seriousness : |
5 |
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Time : |
7hr 30 min |
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Assessment:
a superb long scramble across the unforgettable peaks of the North of Glencoe.
Seasonal notes: a major
winter mountaineering expedition.
The Aonach Eagach ridge is
one of the most famous hillwalking challenges in Scotland; feared by some,
boasted about by others and occasionally described as epic by those who dare in
winter.
This linear ridge runs
along the northerly side of Glencoe (which is more or less east-west). On the
southerly side is the Bidean range including the famous "three
sisters". The ridge itself runs frm Sron Gharbh/Am Bodach in the east to
Sgurr nam Fiannaidh in the west, just above the Clachaig Inn. You could almost
say that the ridge runs from the King's House hotel to the Clachaig Inn, but
might give the wrong impression about hillwalkers/mountaineers!
How
hard is it?
There is much hype about
about traversing the Aonach Eagach, about how hard it is and about how scary
and to some extent these stories have a smattering of truth and merit. The
ridge isn't for the faint hearted and it can definitely be dangerous. However,
if you have a head for heights and a certain amount of confidence that means
you can withstand the exposure then you have nothing to fear from the ridge
traverse - except getting stuck behind a group of people less "able"
than yourself, roped up and moving slightly slower than a garden snail...
There are several
technical difficulties on the ridge. You cannot avoid either of the more
difficult descents or much of the scrambling and if you think you want to why
are you even thinking about going? The ridge is narrow some of
the time but it isn't like that all the way along - much of the ridge is
just like any other - there's just some entertainment in between! Entertainment
that almost anyone (see above) can cope with.
Roped
Groups
If you are planning to go
in a larger group and suspect that a confidence rope is going to be used then
please consider other people. Having 10 people on a rope on the ridge (5m
apart) is not ideal and will really slow you down... and no-one will be able to
get past you because that would be dangerous.
If you're not with a
qualified guide then you probably shouldn't be roped in this manner anyway - if
you must rope up, we would suggest groups of no more than 3 - how can the first
person on the rope (probably the most experienced) protect the person at the
back if there are 8 people in between???
Be
Prepared
OK, so you've decided to
go and do it - what could go wrong? In summer, apart from missing the pub
because you were benighted, not much! The only real problem is descent.
If you're traversing from east-west you would probably expect to descend
directly to the Clachaig Inn - don't! Clachaig Gully has a habit of eating the
unwary - people die trying this descent!!! [Especially at night.] There
are two other descent routes, down the scree slopes before the gully (nasty but
relatively safe) or the recommended descent route which entails going over the
summit and descending to the col before the Pap of Glencoe and then descending
the easy, well worn path. Check for restrictions on using this route before
setting out - this is a working farm and access may be closed!
The only other thing you
might prepare for is having to snack on the ridge when you get stuck behind
slower moving groups - sun-tan cream and insect repellent could be useful, too.
In order to maximise your
day the adventurous could consider doing the traverse at night(!) or bivvying
on Am bodach and getting started before the crowds.
The
Route
Going
up?
The route we're going to
describe is probably the best one and runs from East - West. It's not that it's
more exciting but we find it's better to finish closer to the car & the
pub. Two cars are better than one because it is a linear ridge - you're going
to end up about 6km from where you started so 1 car left at the Three Sisters'
viewpoint (171 568) and one at the Clachaig Inn is the easiest way to do things
- otherwise you can try hitching back to your car later...
Starting at the viewpoint,
make you way to the summit of Sron Garbh, or if you're lazy just head for the
summit of Am Bodach, the descent from which is the first difficulty on the
ridge!
Going
along...
The descent from Am Bodach
and the traverse of the Chancellor is short and sharp and care/steady nerves
are certainly required - some people would argue that this represents the
"worst" part of the ridge. If you're in a group, be careful to give
everyone enough space/time - don't hurry anyone here - a slip could be very
nasty. Once you've downclimbed the pillar/staircase you're at the top of a steep
gully which you only need to skirt across (slippy) before a very short
knife-edge section (<3m) leading to more reassuring ground...
From here you make your
way over the ridge/pinnacles at your leisure - in good weather only easy
scrambling is required and on a fine day you'll probably not notice the big
steep drops... on a more atmospheric day some people might describe the
pinnacles as scary...
The only other part of the
ridge that could really be described as nasty is the descent from the summit of
Meall Dearg - it's a uniform slop at an angle of about 45° and there isn't much
to convince you you're not going to slip! There is a descent amount of friction
from the rock though but rollerskates/running shoes would not be recommended -
serious boots only, please.
Going
Down...
Enjoy, enjoy - then follow
the more prosaic ridge to the summit of Sgurr nam Fiannaidh. Descend from
either the scree (take a rough bearing to Loch Achtriochtan from the summit and
follow it by the easiest route not the steepest) or the recommended route from
(126 592) the col before Sgorr na Ciche (Pap of Glencoe).
It's well worth going to
the Pap - the views down Loch Leven to Kinlochleven and over the Mamores is
beautiful - and the descent is much safer and better for your knees!
Navigation
The best map for this area
is the OS Outdoor Leisure 38 - Ben Nevis & Glen Coe - 1:25,000 map.
You can't get lost on the
ridge but you still have to be able to mapread/navigate effectively - you have
to get onto and off of the ridge safely! As usual, everyone in the group should
have a map/compass and know how to use them properly.
Gear
In summer you need all the
usual stuff; good boots, waterproofs, food, water and insect repellent!
Scrambling
and walking amongst the finest scenery in Scotland!
