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Northumbria University Mountaineering Club |
O U T A C |
Route : Lochnagar |
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OS MAP : |
43/44 |
Grade : |
4 |
|
GR : |
186911 |
Terrain : |
5 |
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Distance : |
12 miles (19 km) |
Navigation : |
3 |
|
Ascent : |
910 m (3,000 ft) |
Seriousness : |
3 |
Situated on Royal Deeside,
the mountains of Lochnagar stand guard over Balmoral Palace and the towns of
Ballater, Braemar and Balmoral. The mountains are popular all year round with
walkers, rock and ice climbers and mountaineers.
The open countryside here
is idyllic and the mountain views are expansive, however, to appreciate these
views you need to ascend to the summits! From the ground you'll see lots of
green hillside and perhaps the odd cliff - from the summits you'll see mountain
ridges, rivers, lochs and if you ascent to Lochnagar the impressive cliffs that
are so appealing to rock and ice climbers.
All grid/map references
have been taken from OS Landranger 44, " Ballater, Glen Clova &
surrounding area".
It is normally true that
there is an easy way and a hard(er) way to do most things and climbing
Lochnagar is no exception. The start of the normal route is reached by car via
Ballater. The car-park is at the head of Glen Muick.
From the carpark (pay) at
ref 310852 follow the Landrover track (& signposts!) through the patch of
forest and up a gently inclining slope until you reach 273861. It's quite a
long walk to this point but it is all on the Landrover track so the gradient
isn't very steep and you gain 600m quite easily.
Head off west towards the
col beneath Meikle Pap (980m) at 259 858 - it's well worth descending into the
corrie short distance - the cliffs are awesome! This is a useful spot to take
some notes, too, if you are planning to come back here in the winter.
From the col head upwards
and around the rim of the corrie - the two peaks are Cac Carn Mor (1150m) and
the summit, Cac Carn Beag (1155m).
Descend the same route you
went up.
If you want to have a
longer day and see a great deal more of the mountains here you can either:
These are likely to give a
very long, very quiet, but peaceful and enjoyable day...
Ballater is 16 miles from
Braemar heading towards Aberdeen - this makes it about 40 miles from Aberdeen
itself. You need to leave Ballater by the bridge marke on OS Landranger 44 at
372 956 and head south towards Glen Muick/Spittall of Glenmuick. There is a
carpark at the end of the road (310 852) which costs £2 (Upper Deeside Access
Trust).
So, how do you get there?
From Inverness
Head south for Aberdeen then leave
the city by the A93 - Glen Muick is signposted from Ballater.
From the South
Head for Perth
Don't leave Perth by the A9 unless you wish to drive through Dunkeld or
Pitlochry (which are very nice) along the way. Take the "old road"
which is the A93 on the other side of the River Tay then head north through
Glenshee and Braemar until you reach Ballater.
In summer, anyone who can
use basic navigation techniques will not have a problem, even in mist. Until
you reach the cliffs of Lochnagar there is little objective danger and the path
is very big (Landrover track) - the mountain is also very busy and it's hard to
get lost with loads of people around.
In winter much of the area
becomes featureless white and any paths/Landrover tracks vanish without trace.
Careful navigation in these conditions is essential to your safe return to the
car park. Even in clear conditions the land can be disorienting simply because
it's all white - patches of forest/peaks might be your only visual clues and in
poorer conditions you'll need to rely on reading the gradient/orientation of
the land to navigate from one point to another.
Much care is required
around the summit area of the mountain and all around the top of the cliffs -
it is likely that thre will be climbers in the area enjoying the gullies etc
and you should be aware of their presence. You should also note any cornices
and steer clear - summer visitors will note that there is a line of cairns
leading around to the summit - these are some 20m from the rim of the corrie - intended
to be behind any cornice fracture line!
In my opinion it is very
wise to visit the mountains in summer before visiting them in winter - you get
a chance to see the true state of certain slopes and estimate where cornices
will form and which slopes are possible escape routes in bad conditions - ok,
you can gues this kind of thing from a map but its easier to orientate yourself
if the surroundings are at least partially familiar!
Summer
In summer walking is very popular
and all the usual items are required. A day on Lochnagar is likely to be a long
one so be prepared...
Good boots, waterproofs and perhaps
a hat
Map & compass + knowledge of how
to use them!
PLENTY of water and enough food -
dehydration is a serious problem
Sunscreen?/Insect Repellant
Winter
Winter and the presence of snow/ice
make this mountain a serious proposition.
Mountaineering boots & suitable
crampons / ice axes
Appropriate clothing &
wind/waterproofs
Practised winter skills (ice-axe
self-arrest; step-cutting)
Map & Compass and the ability to
navigate in white-out conditions
Common sense and experience
Survival/Bivvy bag and preferably a
Snow Shovel
The Braemar MRT recommend using
avalanche transceivers
You should also possess knowledge of
avalanche risk and recent weather conditions.
Scrambling
and walking amongst the finest scenery in Scotland!
