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Northumbria University Mountaineering Club |
O U T A C |
Route : Slioch |
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Suilven
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OS MAP : |
15 |
Grade : |
5 |
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GR : |
107220 |
Terrain : |
3 |
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Distance : |
21 km |
Navigation : |
1 |
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Ascent : |
880 m |
Seriousness : |
5 |
The striking sandstone
peak of Suilven rises boldly above the lochan-studded Sutherland moors like an impregnable
monolith, its formidable western buttress as seen from Lochinver
prompting the Vikings to name it Pillar Mountain. To the Gaels it became known
as the Grey Castle, and more recently the Sugar Loaf. Despite its apparent unscalability, the 1 mile (l'/2 km) long summit ridge is
easily reached by stone shoots on either side, but the traverse of the three
sharp tops is a more exciting affair, calling for careful and exposed
scrambling in superb situations.
The best approach is from
the road to Glencanisp Lodge, which leaves the A837
at the south end of Lochinver. Begin 1 mile (2km)
along at the end of the public road, where there is a parking space. Continue
along the road and through the grounds of the lodge, beyond which the track
descends to a fork at the end of Loch Druim Suardalain. Branch left here on an excellent well-drained
stalkers' path that strikes eastwards towards Suilven, undulating alongside a chain of lochans among rock outcrops typical of gneissian
Sutherland terrain.
Keep right at a cairned
fork near Suileag to draw slowly alongside the north
face of Suilven, which from here has the appearance
of a beached galleon. The access stone shoot can be seen leading up to the
lowest point on the ridge (the Bealach Mor). About 600m after the path
crosses the Abhainn na Clach Airigh, branch right on a side path that crosses the
moorland to a shelf of attractive lochans and climbs
steeply up the stone shoot. At the Bealach Mor, turn right for an easy but
exposed scramble to the table-top summit of Caisteal Liath, for a great view of the western seascape.
The two eastern tops are
trickier than Caisteal Liath,
but are well worth exploring if you feel capable. Return to the Bealach Mor
and scramble up Meall Mheadonach,
avoiding some awkward towers by a path on the right, if necessary. The top is
surprisingly level and grassy, but soon drops steeply to a narrow bealach from where the climb up Meall
Bheag is the most sensational on the ridge, requiring
exposed scrambling on loose rocky terraces. Keep left to find the easiest line,
and remember that you will have to reverse it.
The return route is as for
the approach. On a hot summer's day the shelf of lochans
at the foot of the stone shoot is a seductive place to recuperate before the
long walk out.