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Northumbria University Mountaineering Club |
O U T A C |
Route : Rum Cuillin |
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OS MAP : |
39 |
Grade : |
5 |
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GR : |
402995 |
Terrain : |
4 |
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Distance : |
12.5 miles (20 km) |
Navigation : |
5 |
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Ascent : |
1,900 m (6,250 ft) |
Seriousness : |
5 |
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Time : |
11 hours |
Plan : |
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Assessment: a superb
long scramble across the unforgettable peaks of the forbidden island.
Seasonal
notes: a major winter mountaineering expedition.
Barkeval
(591 m, 1,938 ft) Boat Mountain (poss)
Hallival
(723 m, 2,372 ft) Mountain of Slabs
Askival (812
m, 2,664 ft) Ash (tree) Mountain
Trallval 7O2
m, 2,303 ft) Giant's Mountain
Ainshval
(781 m, 2,562 ft) obscure
Sgurr nan
Gillean (764 m, 2,506 ft) Skoor nan God yan, Peak of the Gullies
Bealach an
Oir Ayalach an Oa ir, Pass of Gold (from Gaelic Or) or Pass of the Shore or
Boundary (from Gaelic Oir)
Bealach an
Fhuarain Byalach an Oo arm, Pass of the Spring
Coire Dubh Corra
Doo, Black Corrie
Alit Slugan
a' Choilich Owlt 5/ookan a Chullich, Stream of the Cockerel's Gullet
Climbing on the wild
and mysterious island of Rum is an exercise in logistics and commitment, yet
this book would be incomplete without at least one route across its rugged
peaks. Before it became a National Nature Reserve, in 1957, access to the
forbidden island was discouraged by the owners, and even today authorisation to
climb must be obtained from the Nature Conservancy (12 Hope Terrace, Edinburgh;
031-447 4784). An overnight stay will be required (hotel accommodation or
camping) and all provisions must be carried in. There is much to see on the
island, notably the great sea cliffs and stacks and the mountains themselves,
the Cuillin of Rum, which form the shape of a question mark in the southern
half of the island. They are certainly `one heap of rude mountains', as
MacCulloch described them in 1824. Their traverse is the best route in the
islands outside Skye, with unforget- table views and situations and many
sections of exciting scrambling on mostly excel lent rock closely related to
Sky gabbro. Begin at Kinloch and take the path up the left bank of the AIlt
Slugan a (Shoilich into (Loire Dubh, from where the Bealach Barkeval is easily
reached. Climb Barkeval for the view of northern Rum and the main ridge, then
return to the bealach and climb Hallival. Beyond Hallival the ridge narrows to
a sharp rocky arete leading to Askival, Rum's highest peak. Askival's north
ridge is the sharpest of the day and provides the most spectacular scrambling,
although the only real difficulty is the steep step of the so called Askival
Pinnacle, which can be bypassed on the left. From Askival, the main ridge turns
west for a long descent to the Bealach an Oir and reascent to the twin tops of
TraIlval, the scramble over the airy summit ridge connecting them requiring
care. Another long descent to the Bealach an Ehuarain separates you from the
last major ascent of the day, the intimidating north ridge of Ainshval. The
rock here is qutrtzite, loose and greasy when wet, and care is required, but on
closer acquaintance all difficulties are avoidable. The final section of ridge
over a subsidiary top to Sgurr nan Gillean is relatively straightforward, and
this last summit of the day makes a fitting finish to the traverse, for before
you the ground drops away steeply and ahead lies only the sea. The easiest
return route is to redescend to the Bealach an Fhuarain and contour the slopes
of TralIval to the Bealach an Gir. From here descend slightly and traverse beneath
Askival and Hallival around the head of the Atlantic Corrie to reach the
Bealach Barkeval and the route
Scrambling
and walking amongst the finest scenery in Scotland!
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Northumbria University Mountaineering Club |
O U T A C |
Route : Rum Cuillin |
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